Login · Register
July 18 2018 09:29:12

Random photos
 (Album: W124's)

Latest Articles
No Articles available

Users Online
· Guests Online: 2

· Members Online: 0

· Total Members: 7,996
· Newest Member: serj_benz



Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.

Member Poll
How many miles on your W124?

0mi - 50,000mi
0mi - 50,000mi
5% [87 Votes]

50,000mi - 100,000mi
50,000mi - 100,000mi
10% [181 Votes]

100,000mi - 150,000mi
100,000mi - 150,000mi
21% [381 Votes]

150,000mi - 200,000mi
150,000mi - 200,000mi
25% [444 Votes]

200,000mi - 250,000mi
200,000mi - 250,000mi
18% [328 Votes]

250,000mi - 300,000mi
250,000mi - 300,000mi
10% [180 Votes]

300,000mi - 350,000mi
300,000mi - 350,000mi
5% [86 Votes]

350,000mi +
350,000mi +
6% [117 Votes]

Votes: 1804
You must login to vote.
Started: 03/14/2011

Polls Archive

View Thread
» W124-Zone.com » Technical Issues
 Print Thread
warm starting problem
bill e
1988 300ce, 172k. when car is cold starts ok. after car warms up car will not crank on 1st try, but will start on 2nd try with a little rough idle, but then levels out. if i give gas to the car when it is warm it will start every time with a little rough idle then is ok. have installed new fuel filter and new fuel pump. any suggestions as what i might try next. thanks, bill e
I have had kind of the same issue with a '94 e320 wagon. I think some injector cleaner may help at least it did for me.
bill e
thanks for the reply, but i have already tried this and still have problem. bill e
Probably fuel accumulator no longer holding fuel pressure after shutoff. When the car is warm, this is critical for starting.
1988 Pearl Grey Metallic Mercedes 300TE - 114,000mi
1987 Black Mercedes 260E - 92,500mi
2002 Silver CLK320 (Girlfriends) - 104k
I get the same symptoms when cold as well. Needs 2nd key turn over, rough idle for a bit and then smooths out. Be just living with it but would really like to solve.

90 300e with 130k
I have the identical problem with my 1988 300E. I have tried all of the obvious things-replaced fuel accumulator and fuel regulator.
I have swapped the Electro-Hydraulic Actuator (EHA), which controls the amount of fuel entering the fuel distributor. I have tried adjusting the EHA. I have disconnected the cold-start valve.
The fuel system pressure holds at about 3.5 BAR for 25-30 min after shut-off. It doesn't seem to be a fuel pressure issue or air leak issue. So far I am stumped. Any progress on your end?
Update - I solved the problem. Repairs I made in order are: smoke test indicated leak in rubber boot underneath throttle valve. Replaced boot, no change in starting problem. Replaced crank position sensor, no change. Replaced fuel pressure regulator, no change. Suspected timing chain was possibly stretched, rebuilt head, replaced timing chain, no change. Replaced fuel distributor with rebuilt unit, voila! Problem solved.
Hope this helps someone, this was a real pain.
Smoke tests are performed to check the leaks in rubber boots and gaskets. Vacuum leak can be easily identified if smoke test is performed. Rubber boots are used for various purposes such as hunting, farming, ranching,etc. Thus smoke test can be effective to check the leakage and avoid the damages.
Your car has a problem that will disturb you for a long time. One person first complained about this on http://superiorpapers.org and it still is a problem. My suggestion would be to buy a new car.
This is very useful, although it will be important to help simply click that web page link: Obsession Phrases
great Dofollow Trust Flow Backlinks
Jump to Forum: