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Member Poll
How many miles on your W124?

0mi - 50,000mi
0mi - 50,000mi
5% [87 Votes]

50,000mi - 100,000mi
50,000mi - 100,000mi
10% [180 Votes]

100,000mi - 150,000mi
100,000mi - 150,000mi
21% [377 Votes]

150,000mi - 200,000mi
150,000mi - 200,000mi
25% [441 Votes]

200,000mi - 250,000mi
200,000mi - 250,000mi
18% [323 Votes]

250,000mi - 300,000mi
250,000mi - 300,000mi
10% [177 Votes]

300,000mi - 350,000mi
300,000mi - 350,000mi
5% [85 Votes]

350,000mi +
350,000mi +
6% [115 Votes]

Votes: 1785
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Started: 03/14/2011

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» W124-Zone.com » Technical Issues
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Stutter / stall issue W124 M103
Hello to all,
I have a 1987 Mercedes 300e that has had a stutter / stall issue for some time now. This issue has caused the car to be un-drivable. It started with an out of spec throttle position switch and has just morphed from there. The car idled at approximately 1100 rpms and would begin stalling after about 3 blocks from the house. I will list everything I have done thus far and see if you have any ideas as to what the underlying issue may be.
Removed and recalibrated the throttle position switch. - Fixed high idle issue
Removed idle air control valve, cleaned, and tested. - Just to be sure
Inspected and replaced all vacuum lines. - Just to be sure
Removed and bench tested injectors. - Tested bad, replaced - Fixed rough idle and hard start issue.
Replaced Thermo valve and replaced both temp sensors - Just because they were inexpensive.
Tested O2 sensor, was out of spec - Replaced, no noticeable change to car performance.
Tested Crankshaft position sensor, was out of spec once car was at operating temp - Replaced, smoothed out idle and acceleration.
Tested OVP relay, tested good - Replaced - Fixed cold start issue.
Tested ignition coil, test within specs cold and hot.
Removed sparkplugs, cap, and rotor. Cleaned and reinstalled. - Smoothed out idle more and improved acceleration.
Tested and replaced potentiometer, was out of spec. Reinstalled and calibrated to within .02 - .04 volts of the specified 0.7 volt parameter.
Adjusted fuel / air mixture to within .5 volts +/- of the recommended 50% duty cycle specification.
Replaced fuel filter - Just to be sure

This car runs like a new sewing machine fresh off the factory assembly line. You wouldn't believe how well this cars runs for being 30 years old. WITH THAT SAID,,, I start and allow the car to warm up to operating temperature. I pull out of the garage, begin driving down the street, the wind in my hair, a smile on my face. I drive for three blocks and come to my 3rd stop sign. I begin to accelerate from the stop and the vehicle begins to stutter and stall. I feather the accelerator and get past the stutter stall and continue to drive normally. The next stop sign the same thing and the next and the next all the way back home. I get the car in the garage, pop the hood, and I am able to manually accelerate the throttle by hand and it stalls every time I "flip" the throttle lever.

So if any of you fine people have any ideas, I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thank You
Very similar situation with my '88 300CE. Unless it's very humid, it starts fine and runs fine until the engine has been running 5-10 minutes, either driving or idling. If it is humid out, can be hard to start, but it always will start. Then, once the engine nears full operating temp, the off-idle stuttering and stalling begins. If I feather the throttle carefully until it gets above ~1200 RPM, I can usually keep it from stalling. Once it has been driven and gotten past the "stall-out period", generally after 10 to 20 minutes of driving from cold-start, it then accelerates and runs perfectly for the rest of the day, even if I come back and drive the car 5, 6, 7 hours after shutdown. However if it does stall during that troublesome 10-20 min period after cold-start (usually with a pronounced "chuff" from under the hood), it WILL NOT restart until it sits for 30-45 mins, then everything is okay.

I won't go thru the very long list of everything I have checked, but I've been trying to run this thing down for 2 yrs, and checked out dozens of components and not found any significant probs.

As with cfrantz, I will be forever indebted to anyone who recognizes this malfunction and has a solution.
john gilbert
'91 300E 103.I had the same situation. Run well...intermittently at red light, shudder and miss when accelerated and die. Not able to start again. Tow home appox 1 hr starts right up. Pulled air intake man. and noticed wet on throttle spring and micro sensor from fuel line above. Very, very slight leak. Fixed, replaced sensor (mechanic did not think it the cause) but has not happened again. Also replaced OVP.
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